Gamebuino Advanced prototype has been built

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Re: Gamebuino Advanced prototype has been built

Postby Duhjoker » Thu Apr 13, 2017 4:48 am

One more thing to add about the library is to look at the settings.c file for your button pins. You will need to update them to match your set up.

Ok with the chance of being able to procure the smaller 2.2inch screens dwindling daily.... It's come to mind that I need to make some changes to the case designs. The long octoganal shape will end up being 162mm wide with the 2.4inch and about 185mm wide with the 2.8inch. That's as long and longer than a PSVita. Granted I can get the case to under 20mm thick on the profile but it's not really pocket sized.

So I'm looking at different shapes and thought about going back to a folder when I got an idea.....

I love robots especially Hexapods. They just intrigue me. Any way I ran across a thing on thingiverse that's a modular 3D printed snake type robot. Each part has its own power and micro controller. One of the features that made it all work together was neodymium magnets. They not helped attach the snake modules together but they are also connected to the MCU wiring so they can all be used at once or one at a time.

So what I was thinking was maybe I could design a modular system with a core holding the battery the TFT and the screen. Then you could attach extras like d-pad and ABXY buttons on either end or on the bottom. Then other things could be created to attach. This is especially true with the ESP boards. Since any pin can be any pin you could literally build it into any thing for Iot.

I need some ideas. What would guys like to see in a case? What do you think about the sizes I listed?

https://tams.informatik.uni-hamburg.de/ ... clawar.pdf


Ok so I got on my computer and starting playing with 123design and first made a 3D rendered version of the screen. Then I tried a couple things with a one piece but I think it would be better to make a two piece folder. With some clever engineering I can make it 24mm to 26mm total closed and about 13mm open. Or make the bottom and top to connect via magnets and wire then like mentioned above. The battery would be on the back of the screen in the top case with the buttons and your MCU of choice in the bottom case with the buttons.

Edit:::

Ugg I just can't seem to figure out how to do the case but I might have an idea........

I got some dummy parts and started moving stuff around trying to come up with a solution that works and allows the hardware needed and at the smallest possible configuration. So I came up with a square or more like a rectangle barely rectangled.

Have the screen at the top with the dpad and ABXY directly below the screen. Haven't quite figured out the shoulders yet though. The start and select will probably be on the profile or not. For the 2.8 inch we are looking at 95x80x15mm, smaller for the 2.4. Of course.

So to get it so flat I'll imbed the screen into the case along with the button pad circles so the buttons large circle of the button pieces fit flush with the case. Now for sure the battery will have to be attached to he back of the TFT. Then there should be plenty of room to add the MCU behind the button pads to make it as thin as as I can.

Still pocket size at that.

Image

Edit::::

Heres the case for the 2.8. Its a lil thicker at 19mm but the extra space can be used for extra stuff like the sd card and charger and wiring. All right so the buttons will fit along a long piece of breadboard. I moved the start and select buttons up closer to the screen to i can use that lil space as a common ground for buttons and stuff. The shoulders are on top but will be tricky. Well it will be fine as long as your not a perfectionist.

Image
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Re: Gamebuino Advanced prototype has been built

Postby Duhjoker » Sat Apr 15, 2017 8:22 am

More pics. Remember this is just a dummy. I havent added ports or any thing and i think ill have the shoulder buttons either on the side about midway or on the back. Its definitely not working where they are.

Image


Image

What do you think of the name Gamebuino Squared?

EDIT:: ok so I was trying to make the library fully compatible with most hardware options is going to be a lot of work that I'm not ready for yet. I do have it but untested. any way what I think I'll do is just make that separate from the ARM version. Especially since the NES emu will have a separate file as well.
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Re: Gamebuino Advanced prototype has been built

Postby Duhjoker » Thu Apr 20, 2017 7:34 am

I've got some awesome news for any one that wants to play with a 16bit gaming device. Any arduino!!!

I've been on the pjrc site getting help for the frame buffer to the esp32 library. And I mentioned that the only only thing stopping any one from doing this with any MCU was the flash storage problem and enough RAM enough to supply the buffer.

Well one thing led to the next and I found a nice lil goodie for flash but I'm still working on the RAM.

Here take a peep at this..........

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... ID=EBAY-US

Edit::::::

Just found ram but it will have to be soldered to a board...........

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... ID=EBAY-US

Update::: finished the esp32 library so now we can build a color gaming system for almost any mcu. Of course with RAM and Flash extension any one can be capable.

Giant thank you to KurtE for his time and help to make most of this posible.

Esp-----------------------
3.3v-------3.3v
GND-------gnd
CS---------------------22
Reset------3.3v
DC---------------------5
MOSI-------------------23
SCK--------------------18
LED---------3.3v
Miso-------------------19

Teensy3.2-3.6-------------------
VCC---------3.3v
GND---------GND
CS-------------------------10
RESET-------3.3v
DC--------------------------9
MOSI------------------------11
SCK-------------------------13
LED---------3.3v
MISO------------------------12

Battery --------------------3.7v lipo!!!!!! No step up!!!
Charger---------------------Tp4056

Be sure to power your MCU with the battery directly attach to a charger. 5v will cause excessive heat on the TFT and drain your battery too power too quickly, like 45minutes.

When creating button modules...... I usually attach the wires from the button side and glue wires after soldering from the back. This kills about 3 to 5 millimeters and then you insulate the button backs and you have space for extra components with out adding bulk to the profile.

Image


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Edit::: I ended up having to change where the L and R buttons go several times over to get them in a comfortable enough place. Now they should be where your index fingers can hit them naturally and they will install to the back. I also removed the G for now but kept the square for ventilation purposes. I also added a couple extra mm to the profile which will make it easier for to get every thing packed in.

Ok if you want SD capability for bitmaps check your Teensy libraries. Specifically arduino/hardware/teensy/avr/libraries/adafruit_ili9341/example/spitftbitmap/spitftbitmap.ino. I'm going to be adding it to the library tonight and I'll leave a link to my Dropbox for the updated library.

Haven't quite figured out how to use it quite yet but this should help ease of progmem. I dont think you can use tilemap with it but you can always store your tilemap as one big bitmap on the so card. Also wouldn't know how to add the collision detection since it tells which bitmaps are supposed to be solid.

Edit::

Added the 2.4tft case version in the case zip. I screw turrets for the 2.4tft's buttons are the same for both the 2.4 and 2.8 so if you decide to change TFT sizes you can use the same button breadboard.

Edit:::::

I was wrong about the buttons!!! There's a difference in length of about 5mm.



Heres a pic with both the 2.4 and 2.8

Image

Edit:: heres a list of compatible tft's

https://www.ramtex.dk/display-controlle ... li9341.htm
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Re: Gamebuino Advanced prototype has been built

Postby Duhjoker » Sun May 07, 2017 6:33 am

Ok first I want to thank Rodot for letting us do this here.

Ok so in the link below is the master zip file for the gamebuino squared project including .stl's for the 2.8 and 2.4 case, assembly pics, the main library, SpiN-master and esp32 library. There's been a few changes for optimization and I added a readme file that includes instructions on how to build, TFT wiring and some other good stuff. Just unpack and go.

Changed name to GameRIot. Rodot hasn't said anything about the name though this is a Gamebuino project, I decided it would save trouble to go ahead and rename the library system. All credits have now also been included.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n4sjs7w41ejob ... e.zip?dl=0

I did not mention the rear L and R buttons which are there but optional.

Edit::::

I timed this pic just right!!!!

Image

Heres a pic from the side, its just 21mm thick. Average but the piGrrl and the rest of the pi products end up being around 28mm.

Image

Still need to add the l and r buttons.

Image

Here's a link to the Facebook group please join for support and updates

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1884138545176856/


Edit:::::

Ok quick tip from the pjrc site..... On the back of your TFT near the voltage regulator is lil pad that has to solder points to them. This is called J1. Solder those two pads together and your TFT will light up brighter.

On the 2.4inch case and 2.8inch case....... I'm pretty good at playing 3D Tetris so I squeezing a bunch a gear into a case is not much of a problem. But gear may vary in size. So in order to correct the problem if one arises with depth, I made the back lid 3mm with a 2mm recession in it. That will help a lil and you can always use longer screws and washers in between the case and back as well. I gave the screw turrets about 7mm diameter and they are fused to the case so you can do what you need to do.

Don't know what I'm going to do about left and right shoulder buttons. Due to wiring there's really no way to add them. Maybe in future incarnations.

A few word about 3D printing. I've been ordering and recently printing out my own 3D designs for a few years now. And if it's one thing I have learned its that there's no way to get a perfect print. I designed each part with enough room so every fits together loosely but that doesn't mean every thing will fit perfectly so sanding and filing will have to be used to correct the problem areas.

I have three files I use for cleaning up prints. A cylinder file to clean up holes, a flat file and a triangle file. A razor blade help too as when filing plastic builds around the edges you filed, just gently cut off the excess.

Since this is a multiple MCU platform for gaming almost any MCU can be used. That means stuff can go where ever you can fit it. In that I did not add a hole for the teensy reset button. You will want to do this yourself with a drill to ensure proper placement.


How you guys doing with your builds?
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